Tue Jun 28 09:59:43 EDT 2005
Mr Ban Liefhouth

Hey,
Sorry I haven’t written until today. I finally found a functioning internet cafe
yesterday and after deleting all the “cheap software”, “multi orgasm pill for
men” and “EXTRA TIME- lasts 5-10 times longer” emails and trying to relate some
experiences on the screen, there was a power cut followed by a server crash
followed by closing time and I never got the email sent- just like everything
else I tried to do yesterday!After a 30-hour journey, for most of which I was helping a dad travelling on his
own to look after his 18-month-old son, I arrived in Cochi airport to find that
my luggage was still in Sri Lanka and my taxi driver holding a sign saying [Mr
Ban Liefhouth] spoke no english and
couldn’t tell me the address of where I was staying. Eventually I managed to
find out where I was staying and fill in a lost luggage form and emerged an
hour later to get a ride in the most hideous monster of an american chelsea
tractor (chevrolet) to “Abad Plaza” where I was greeted by a swarm of flunkeys
in cumberbunds calling me Sir and wanting to carry my bag and open doors for
me… a first in my experience! I then found out that the hotel cost a bomb and
wasn’t paid for in advance… had a bit of a strop, then in my tired state
stayed anyway resolving to sort it out after some sleep- turned out to be the
right decision.

I’ve taken quite a while to adapt, my Hindi being absolutely useless in Kerela
and the heat and moisture being stifling and sticky (With only one set of
clothes people are wise to stay a considerable distance from me ). Yesterday
and today I have had leisurely mornings and waited for it to cool down with a
bit of rain, then started exploring- taking rickshaws, ferries, walking around
Fort Cochin island and shopping- though mostly in fixed-price shops.

I’ve started really enjoying the exhilarating rickshaw rides through the city-
with nobody driving in the right direction for the side of the road its a
matter of driving any direction you can and dodging whatever is in the way-
swollen-bellied cows, goats, motorbikes carrying families and livelihoods,
other rickshaws and colourfully painted lorries (with cartoon characters on the
back and cheesy musical ringtone-style reversing horns). Oh and cars and people
carrying their lives on their heads or in carts intermingling in every
direction, u-turning, crossing or just driving and walking wherever there is
space. The island is a bit more chilled out, with less trafic and time to
meander in and out of alleyways, smelling the delicious mixture of spices from
the kiosks where a myriad of spice jars jostle for space on the front counter
and smiling women bekon you in to buy a sack or two of garlic, ginger or
chillies.

“Cottage Industry Exposition”s are dotted around the island with beautiful
saris, rugs, wall hangings, bangles and kashmiri decorated paper mache boxes we
all know so well from similar shops at home. Its a real struggle to stop
rickshaw drivers from taking you to posh shops selling the same for 10x the
price where they get 2% commission. Yesterday a guy who did this took me on the
rounds but ended up being quite friendly, giving me lots of good advice and
sitting by the sea with me teaching me basic Malyalam phrases such as “where
is…” and “water please”.

The highlight of the day today was going back to the island to find a museum
where the Lonely Planet Guide colourfully described a mural featuring “a
cheerful Krishna using his six hands and two feet to engage in foreplay with
eight happy milkmaids”. It was definitely worth the 2rupees entrance ticket,
and the rest of the museum was ok too.

Anyway. I’m knackered and smelly and hungry. My luggage is still not here but
I’ve decided to go to the hospital with or without bag tomorrow, then come back
on saturday to act as guide for phil and go on a houseboat trip on the famous
kerelan backwaters.

Time for food and water.
Take care, love
Simon